Kampot and Kep | Off the Beaten Track in Cambodia

Welcome to the seventh and penultimate in our ‘Off the Beaten Track‘ Cambodia series. As mentioned in the first of this series – Off the Beaten Track Cambodia – Kulen Mountain Day Trip, whilst living in Cambodia we tried to visit and write about a new off the beaten track destination every month. We hope this will encourage people to spend longer in Cambodia to experience what it has to offer away from the tourist trail. In November, Andy and I took my Dad to the less touristy Cambodian riverside towns of Kampot and Kep.

Kampot and Kep

Despite being a popular getaway for those in the know (i.e. mainly expats living in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap) the towns of Kampot and Kep, in Southwest Cambodia often get over-looked by travellers. Close to each other, about 30 – 45 minutes apart depending on your mode of transport, it’s possible to stay in either town. However, whenever we’ve visited we’ve chosen to stay in Kampot. As they’re so close and share many nearby attractions I’ve covered both in this post.

What to See and Do in Kampot and Kep

Kampot itself, with its landmark Durian roundabout, doesn’t have a huge array of things to see and do, yet this is part of its charm. The chilled vibe makes it the perfect place for some downtime. If, and when you get bored of doing not a lot, there’s always the option to venture outside of Kampot, where there’s plenty to keep you occupied.

For us, this included trips to nearby Kep with its giant blue crab statues (just offshore and on the roundabout) and Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island).

Riverside and Beachside Walks

Countryside Tuk Tuk Tour

The best way to see most of the sights around Kampot and Kep is via a half or full day countryside tuk tuk tour from either town. In addition to the things to see and do that I mention below, the actual journey through the beautiful Cambodian countryside itself is amazing, if a little bumpy. You get to see rural Cambodia and it’s wonderful people at their best! Dad and I took a full day tour which cost us $30 USD (£21.17).

Pepper Plantations

Kampot is most well known for its world-renowned Kampot Pepper. This pepper is produced in several hundred organic farms set at the base of mountains in the area. There are several farms you can visit ranging from small family run ventures such as the one Andy and I visited during our first time in Kampot nine years ago, all the way to huge plantations stretching more than 20 hectares. This time Dad and I visited La Plantation because this was where our tuk tuk driver took us. It was set up and is run by a French couple who train and employ many locals.

Salt Flats

Phnom Chhnork Cave

Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island)

Community boat that leaves Koh Tonsay Pier in Kep at 9 am and 1 pm each day and returns at about 3 pm – check time. You can buy a ticket for this at the Community Boat Office in Kep for $7 USD (£4.94) return.

Private boat that will take you and return you at any time before 5 pm for $25 USD (£17.64) return per boat. The boat can be booked and paid for at a little shack at the start of Koh Tonsay Pier and can fit six foreigners or eight locals. This is more flexible than the community boat and cheaper for four or more people.

Crab Shuttle from Kampot which leaves Kampot, opposite Rikitikitavi at 9 am. It reaches Kep at 11:30 am and arranges for you to join the community boat at 1 pm. As per option one you’ll return on the community boat at about 3 pm before joining the Crab Shuttle back to Kep. This costs $18 USD (£12.70) per person and can be booked via the Crab Shuttle Facebook page.

Where to Eat and Drink in Kampot and Kep

Nowadays Kampot has quite a good selection of places to eat and drink, more so than the smaller towns of Kratie and Kampong Cham that I visited earlier in the year. We tried a few out during our stay but sadly only had the chance to eat in one place in Kep during our short visit.

Kampot

Like many riverside towns in Cambodia, most of the places to eat in Kampot are along either side of the river or up the streets leading off it. The area of river running north and south of the old bridge is where you’ll find the majority of them. We didn’t really have a bad meal while we were in town and enjoyed all the places we ate in which were:

Rikitikitavi – set on the riverside road offers great river and mountain views from its first-floor seating area. It’s one of the most popular restaurants in Kampot and serves a fantastic selection of Western and Khmer dishes. The prices are a little higher than some other places but after our amazing meal there I’d say it’s worth it. Dad had Sait Moarn Chantil (Cambodian Stir Fried Chicken, Vegetables and Cashew Nuts) for $6.75 USD (£4.76), Andy had Beef Tenderloin Kebabs for $7.75 USD (£5.47), and I tried their speciality dish Saraman (Beef, Tamarind and Roasted Peanut Curry) for $8 USD (£5.65). Initially, I thought the serving small and asked for more. Big mistake, the dish was so rich I struggled to finish it. The serving size was clearly deliberate but was nonetheless delicious. We were impressed with the food, atmosphere and service; it definitely warrants the sparkling reviews.

Razorbacks – this little American grill joint is tucked away to the right of the walking/ moto only bridge on the other side of the river. Along with amazing grilled meat and fish, salads, pasta, sandwiches and a selection of sides and sauces are also served. We visited here on a recommendation from Siem Reap friends. It was virtually empty whilst we were there and the service quick. I had a Smoked Catfish Burger, which although it may sound a little suspicious was fantastic, a little like jerky, at $4.50 USD (£3.18). Dad had Chicken on the Bone and Andy had a Pulled Pork Burger, they were both also $4 USD (£2.82). We also shared sides of Potato Salad and Coleslaw which were $1.50 USD (£1.06) each. This hidden gem is great value for money.

Rusty Keyhole – again on the riverside road is probably the oldest restaurant in Kampot and is famous for its humungous ribs. We’d been recommended this place by numerous people over the years but had never tried it. This time we made sure to see if their ribs lived up to their reputation, which they did. Instead of a rack of ribs with a thin layer of meat, this appeared to be the entire side of a pig! Andy and I opted for the half rack each smothered in their secret recipe sauce. They cost $6USD (£4.23) each and were massive, I’m glad we didn’t have a whole rack each as tempted because we’d never have finished them. There are other non-rib options such as Chicken Pesto Pasta which Dad had for $5 USD (£3.53).

bARACA – near the centre of Kampot is a Belgium run Tapas bar which we visited with a group of friends in 2017. Serving delicious, inventive tapas at reasonable prices, the fun, yet quiet atmosphere makes this is a great place to spend an evening. I can’t remember what we had but it was good and we thoroughly enjoyed the food and evening we spent there.

There are several other places in Kampot that we’d have liked to try. These include Ellies Cafe, known for its breakfasts, cakes and vegetarian food and Divino, serving up Italian food. For more restaurant ideas have a look at The Travellinghams post on What to Eat in Kampot.

As with most places in Cambodia you can get a drink in nearly all restaurants and guesthouses in Kampot. The only place we visited in Kampot that was solely a drinking establishment was Nelly’s Bar. It’s set on a corner with a river view and is a great spot for some pre or post-dinner drinks. The staff are friendly, it opens late, and they serve good drinks – be sure to try the local Kampot Cider.

Although Nelly’s is the only bar that we visited, the nightlife in Kampot has picked up over the last few years. There are now more options for drinking and even dancing – especially on the weekends. You can read more about these in Move To Cambodia’s post Dancing in Kampot.

Kep

There is a strip of restaurants along the waterfront next to the Crab Market in Kep but they are much of a muchness. Andy and I have only ever eaten in one restaurant – Kimly, which has a great reputation. I also took Dad there for lunch on our tuk tuk tour:

Kimly – about a third of the way along the waterfront from the Crab Market has an extensive list of fresh seafood. Prices are slightly on the high side but it’s justified by the portion size and quality. I took Dad there to sample the famous Kampot Pepper Crab. I’m happy to report that it’s still as delicious as it was on mine and Andy’s previous visits. We each had a ‘normal size’ Kampot Pepper Crab (it was actually still pretty big) which was $8.25 USD (£5.82). As always it was sooo tasty but very, very messy! Be prepared to be up to your elbows in pepper sauce by the time you’ve finished! Remember to wash your hands before diving in or use some hand sanitiser. This is real ‘finger food’ and you don’t a case of travellers’ tummy ruining your trip. 

There were several other places in Kep that could be worth a look for food which Travel Fish have posted about in Places to Eat and Meet in Kep.

Where to Stay in Kampot and Kep

We were hosted for three nights in Kampot at Kampot Riverside Hotel. I’ve reviewed this below. Read more in our full Product Review Disclosure.

Kampot Riverside Hotel

Kampot Riverside Hotel has an ideal location on the Kampot riverside road with a great view of the river and Bokor Mountain behind it. With prices ranging from $30 USD (£21.17) a night for a standard room to $45 USD (£31.76) for a Deluxe Queen or King Room, I would class this a middle range hotel (for Cambodia).

Our clean bedroom was spacious and bright with a comfortable double bed. It had an en-suite shower room with sink and toilet, a hairdryer, and complimentary toiletries. The room was set out with a wardrobe, desk and chair, armchair, and bedside table. There was also a small table with tea and coffee making facilities.

At the end of our corridor, there was a shared balcony with a couple of chairs offering excellent views. We were happy to find the wifi was good and reached all areas of the hotel which was handy as that’s not always the case in Cambodia.

Andy also has a vlog Kampot Riverside Hotel which shows you around the hotel and gives a bit more detail.

Kep Accommodation

We’ve never stayed in Kep so aren’t in a position to recommend accommodation there. There are, however, plenty of options available through Booking.com